The trip to Sapzurro and La Miel was due to leave at nine- thirty in the morning, but there was a problem with the launch that was taking us or maybe it was a problem with the driver or lack of driver, we were never sure but we didn't leave until about an hour later. At first we waited on the beach, but then a guide turned up and we followed him to the jetty at the edge of town, where we waited for approximately another forty-five minutes. Finally the launch, which we could see anchored off the beach in front of the hotel, started to move and soon we were precariously boarding the launch as it bobbed to and fro in the water.
The first stop was Sapzurro, which we reached in about half an hour; we only stopped there for a short time to order our lunch at the restaurant. We were going to spend the morning on the beach at La Miel and would return to Sapzurro for lunch later, and so after about twenty minutes we left and made the short journey around to the next bay and La Miel.
The beach is on the border with Panama, and at the end of the beach is the frontier, a few soldiers armed with automatic weapons were on guard. It's a very strange border crossing, and to tell you the truth I don't think it would be possible to cross there, as it is just a path that disappears from the beach into the dense forest on the Panamanian side. We were told not to take any photographs in the direction of the border post as it could upset the border guards. I guess there were some top secret trees in the background.
There is obviously little work in this fairly remote area of Colombia, and for these people this is one of the few opportunities they have to make some money, and so most people collaborate by buying something. They offer various soft drinks, including coconut juice and bottles of beer, including a Panamanian brand.
We stayed on the beach for about three and a half hours and had a thoroughly enjoyable time; the bay had spectacular views and was so peaceful. There were pelicans gliding overhead and then diving like Kamikaze bombers to catch fish all the time that we were there. We went for a leisurely walk along the beach, which was not very long or wide, the jungle vegetation always very close by. The water was quite clear though the waves did churn up the sand at the shoreline.
Lunch was a choice of fish or prawns, served with coconut rice and a salad. At the time I wasn’t vegetarian, now it would be a problem. The restaurant was just a few tables underneath an awning of somebody's house and I am convinced that the tourists are their only customers. The food was okay but nowhere near as good as in the hotel.
Some people came down to the restaurant to sell their craft work. One women I was talking to had come to Capurganá twenty years ago for a holiday and loved the peace and quiet so much she decided to stay, she wasn't the only one, another lady who was selling home-made ice creams had done the same, both seemed extremely happy with their lives and would definitely not consider changing them for the hustle and bustle of city life.
The one selling the craft work was a bit of an old Hippy, she told me that she had been to Britain and while there had seen the Beatles in concert while she was pregnant with her daughter. She looked like I used to when I was a Hippy, the only difference being that I was eighteen when I looked like that and she was approaching sixty, good on her, she was an interesting lady and definitely happy with her chosen life-style. We returned to the hotel about four o' clock.